Radon Mitigation
Testing shows high levels of radon present, now what?
If radon measurement testing indicates high levels of radon are present in your home or work space, we will work with you to find the best mitigation plan that meets your budget. As a certified measurement and mitigation contractor, I am able to install radon mitigation systems. Lets work together to get your radon levels to below 2.0 pCi/L. Quality over quantity. I have the skills to perform advanced diagnostics to get see where your radon is coming from and the best ways to remove it. Some installers are pumping out radon systems left and right. I would rather complete one dialed in efficient, radon system than 10 cheap fast ones.
How much does a Radon Mitigation System Cost?
Each radon mitigation system is built with your home in mind. A thorough home assessment is completed to determine the best type of mitigation system for your home. Mitigation systems vary according the homes design, size, foundation and construction materials. Generally, a radon mitigation system costs between $1500-$2000. You get what you pay for. Expert installation services are provided to completely address radon in your home. Cheaper radon contractors may be able to provide lower costs, but they rarely provide better service or a better, more efficient system.
Radon Resistant New Construction (RRNC)
A Minnesota Department of Health study has shown RRNC systems only reduce 20%-60% of radon within your home. While this reduction is beneficial, it can still mean your home's radon level is at or above recommended action level. Contact Glacial Lakes Radon to learn more about your home's passive system.
Wondering if you have a passive system?
Radon resistant construction or passive radon systems are installed in Minnesota homes after June 1, 2009. Passive systems include a vent pipe running from below the concrete floor up and above the roofline. This allows some radon to naturally vent out of the home.
Aspects of the system include:
4" layer of clean, gravel below the slab: This layer allows soil gases, to move freely underneath the house.
Plastic sheeting or vapor barrier: This prevents soil gases from entering the house.
A vent pipe: A PVC vent pipe running from the gravel layer up to above the roof, venting radon gas outside. This pipe should be labelled RADON and is most likely located in a utility room in the lowest level of the home.
Sealing and Caulking: Sealing all openings and cracks in the concrete foundation. This is the most important step of a passive system and is most often not completed by home builders. Without sealing the perimeter crack and sump pump basket, radon gases can still enter the home, bypassing the passive system.
Junction Box: An electrical junction box should be installed within 6 feet of the pipe in the attic for future radon fan installation.
Let's activate your passive system!
If you have a passive system contact GLR to inspect and upgrade to an active radon mitigation system. We will complete a thorough inspection and determine the best way to reduce your home's radon levels. We will complete full service diagnostic testing to install the most efficient radon fan reducing electricity cost and money lost from conditioned air leakage. We provide a free consultation to go over all aspects of your radon system and answer any questions you may have.
Active radon mitigation systems also have other additional benefits. These system remove tons of water vapor and help create dryer basement environments. A radon system is capable of extracting up 19 gallons of moisture per day, reducing potential mold growth and the load on a dehumidifier in the basement of the house.